Beads And Feathers: Two Modern Designers Bringing The Ancient Craft Of Beadwork To A Fresh Audience by Kylee Carter

Beads were amongst the earliest goods traded between the indigenous population of America and the Europeans, and the influx of small beads enabled the creation of much more elaborate beadwork than had been possible before, when beads were handcrafted from natural, local materials. As a result, Native American cultures are known for their artistry in beadwork, and although older traditions of beading to decorate horse equipment and utensils are less common in the modern world, beadwork continues to thrive in clothing, decorative items and much traditionally crafted jewelry. While many people still practice the craft, there are some designers of particular note, who are taking their work to new levels and sharing it with the wider world.

Elias Jade Not Afraid

Elias Jade Not Afraid, now based in Whitecone, Arizona, was taught beading as a child in Lodge Grass, Montana. Living on the Crow Indian reservation, he taught himself traditional Crow beadwork technique, using two needles to simultaneously thread and tack down the beads. As a teenager, he kept his craft a secret, having been told that beading was women’s work, but now he owns his tribe’s beadwork with pride. Elias works in the traditional Crow style, using designs and colors from his tribe’s heritage, but pushing the boundaries and breaking stereotypes, beading designs like skull medallions and geometric shapes.

Elias’ work sells well, and he crafts beaded cuffs and belt bags using traditional materials. His rose design belt bag has proved popular, and was made by beading around the outline of the rose before adding the color, from the center outwards, in a free hand style. Artists wishing to emulate his style could use drawing guides to find the shape of the rose before experimenting with beading techniques from their own heritage. Key to Elias’ work is using traditions and materials from his tribe but letting them evolve with modern flourishes, giving his work a highly personalized style.

Lenise Omeasoo 

Lenise Omeasoo, now based in Montana, has routes in the Pikuni Blackfeet tribe, and learnt beading through YouTube as she explored her heritage. She grew up in an urban environment away from her family’s traditions, and she felt compelled to explore her heritage through fashion. Omeasoo learnt through experimentation, mixing traditional techniques with European embroidery styles.

Since then, she has been crafting jewelry through Antelope Women Designs, incorporating her Blackfeet heritage into her work. Her tribe were proud of their hunting skills, and this is reflected in her animal designs, such as her hummingbird earrings. Beaded feather earrings are some of her most popular designs, and she crafts them from crystal rhinestones, seed beads and dentalium shells.

As well as exploring her own heritage, Omeasoo takes custom orders for regalia pieces, incorporating a client’s tribe, family and passions. She’s committed to using these pieces to deliver artwork that is truly unique to the individual, incorporating the ethos of Native American beadwork at the same time as exploring new ideas.

Elias Jade Not Afraid and Lenise Omeasoo are just two artists bringing the indigenous tradition of beadwork to a wider audience, and there are many other young designers ensuring that their families’ traditions live on. Their work is important in ensuring the recognition of the craftwork and technique of indigenous communities, and plays a big role in uniting modern cultures.